— [https://goo.gl/MX79ce] This episode is _______________________about sizing up the history of modeling and how it's influenced beauty culture at large.

:: RT: Fashion Modeling ▶ https://goo.gl/8KiJCQ ◀, When did models begin strutting down the catwalk? View models not as privileged preternatural beings, but as workers who have wage and health-and-safety needs like everyone else. | #Fashion #Modeling #Bras #highHeels #Handbags #Makeup #Thongs #Pants #Panties

PATRÍCIA SOLEY-BELTRÁN presents (2006) a cultural history of modelling paying particular attention to the construction of models’ public personas through the addition of layers of meaning: class, race, nationality and so on. In doing so I will approach the study of model’s bodies as “natural symbols” (Douglas, 1994), a notion widely used in interdisciplinary gender studies (see, for instance, Warner, 1985). I will assume a notion of the body as an artefact resulting from the performative reiteration of collectively defined identity norms performed by each individual subject (Butler, 1990; Soley-Beltran, 2001). Thus, the body is taken as a sign of personal and social identity, a key to understanding the links between individuals and hegemonic definitions of identity, that is, between subjects and social institutions. Learning to control the appearance of one’s body is the first lesson in the social school of symbolic embodiment of acceptable identity and behaviour. Therefore, I expect that the historical review on the construction of the social prestige of female models will reveal the cultural values underlying such embodiment.


MP3 — In these episodes: Fashion modeling and other stuff your Mom Never Told You About! ::

"Charming Power. Models as Ideal Embodiments of Normative Identity", Trípodos. Llenguatge, Pensament, Comunicació, Vol 18, 2006, Barcelona. 23-43. PATRÍCIA SOLEY-BELTRÁN was a professional top model, now she holds a Master of Arts in Cultural History by the University of Aberdeen and she is a Doctor (PhD) in Sociology of Gender by the University of Edinburgh. Her book Divine! Models, Power and Lies has received the 43rd Anagrama Essay Prize (2015). She is member of the Research Group History of Science Studies (University Pompeu Fabra), member of the working group on the body “Cos-logia” (Institut Català d’Antropologia), founding member of the International Society for Cultural History and Editorial Board Member of Critical Studies of Fashion and Beauty

[ • Soley-Beltran worked as a fashion model, got a PhD on the Sociology of Gender, researched intensely on body, beauty and identity, and won the 2015 Anagrama Essay Prize for her book Divine! Models, Power and Lies. Change the model! | Patrícia Soley-Beltran | TEDxBarcelonaWomen ]

[ • PATRÍCIA SOLEY-BELTRÁN is also available in Spanish: "Cuerpos ideales. Una aproximación interdisciplinaria al estudio de las modelos de moda". La presentació social del cos, Quaderns d’Antropologia 26, Institut Català d’Antropologia, Barcelona (Junio 2011). 107-134. ]

[ • Tras los flashes, el lujo y el glamour, la industria de la moda esconde su cara menos amable, la relacionada con la sociedad de consumo, las necesidades creadas y la construcción de la identidad de los individuos en base a los intereses de las grandes marcas. PATRÍCIA SOLEY-BELTRÁN en Youtube ]

Patrícia Soley-Beltran's Academic Papers :
"Cuestiones de bioética relativas a la transexualidad y el transgénero" (2014) Revista de Bioética y Derecho, Universitat de Barcelona. No. 30. 21-39.

"¿Buen sexo o sexo de verdad? Perspectivas sobre la regulación del género" (Good sex or true sex? Perspectives on gender governance), Quaderns de Psicologia, Dossier "Deconstrucción de la psicopatología: actualización y retos de investigación", Teresa Cabruja (ed) (2013). Vol 15, No 1. 45-46.

"Muñecas que hablan. Ética y estética de los modelos de belleza en publicidad y moda" en Josep Martí (ed) Dossier La presentación social del cuerpo en el contexto de la globalización y la multiculturalidad, Revista de Dialectología y Tradiciones Populares, vol. LXVII, n.o 1, pp. 115-146, enero-junio 2012.

"Aesthetic (Dis)Orders: Styling Principles in Fashion Modelling"; Critical Studies in Fashion and Beauty, Vol. 2, Issue 1& 2, (2011). 185-205.

"‘Having Words For Everything'. Institutionalising Gender Migration in Spain (1998-2008)", Sexualities, Law and Sexuality, Volume 14 Issue 3 June 2011. 334 -353. (co-authored with Coll-Planas, Gerard).

"Transsexualism in Spain. A Cultural and Legal Perspective", Sociological Research Online, Vol 12 (1), 2007.

(2007) "Abrir Posibilidades. Entrevista con Judith Butler", Lectora, Vol. 13, Spain. 217-239. (co-authored with Beatriz Preciado)

"El “sexo” y la Matriz Heterosexual. Aspectos teóricos y empíricos de una reconstrucción sociológica de la teoría performativa de género de Judith Butler", Riff-Raff, Vol 34, 2006, Universidad de Zaragoza. 127-142.

"In-Transit: La transexualidad como migración de género", Género y Migraciones, Asparkía. Investigació Feminista 15, Publicacions de l’Universitat Jaume I, 2005, Castelló (Spain). 207-232.

"Modelling Femininity" in Spectacular Women, European Journal of Women Studies, Sage, 11(3), 2004, London. 309-326.

"Supermodelos como emblema cultural", Historia, Antropología y Fuentes Orales 22, 1999, Barcelona. 105-11.

Sources :

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• [2]

"Chanel Iman Talks Racism In The Fashion Industry: 'We Already Found One Black Girl. We Don't Need You'." http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/03/18/chanel-iman-talks-racism-in-fashion-indsutry-_n_2900038.html

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"Fashion Models Are Workers, Too." http://www.thenation.com/article/176141/fashion-models-are-workers-too

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Fashion Models: Image, Text and the Industry. https://books.google.com/books?id=crmMhdqcS5wC&printsec=frontcover#v=onepage&q&f=false

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"How to Be a Supermodel." http://www.forbes.com/2007/10/02/modeling-moss-bundchen-biz-media_cz_kb_1003supermodels.html

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"'Mannequin Parade' - The First Fashion Models." blog.yupnet.org/2013/08/23/mannequin-parade-the-first-fashion-models/

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Model: The Ugly Business of Beautiful Women. https://books.google.com/books?id=oc2utNlf_AYC&printsec=frontcover#v=onepage&q&f=false

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"New York Fashion Week: Diversity Talks but White Faces Walk." http://jezebel.com/new-york-fashion-week-diversity-talks-but-white-faces-1522416724

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"The First Black Supermodel, Whom History Forgot." http://nymag.com/thecut/2013/07/first-black-supermodel-whom-history-forgot.html

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"Cultural Encyclopedia of the Breast." https://books.google.com/books?id=qrCCBAAAQBAJ&printsec=frontcover#v=onepage&q&f=false

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"Femen - Sextremism in Paris." http://www.vice.com/video/femen-sextremism-in-paris

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"See Topless Woman? Just Move On, Police Are Told." http://www.nytimes.com/2013/05/16/nyregion/a-police-roll-call-reminder-women-may-go-topless.html?_r=3&

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"The bared bosom in 17th and 18th century art." http://isiswardrobe.blogspot.com/2013/05/the-bared-bosom-in-17th-and-18th.html

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"The Social and Legal Argoments for Allowing Women to Go Topless in Public." http://www.theatlantic.com/national/archive/2013/09/the-social-and-legal-arguments-for-allowing-women-to-go-topless-in-public/279755/

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"The Weird, Wild Legal History of Breasts and Nipples." https://www.yahoo.com/health/the-weird-wild-legal-history-of-breasts-and-104942336487.html

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"Toplessness - the one Victorian taboo that won't go away." http://www.bbc.com/news/magazine-30052071

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"Why are feminists going topless?" http://www.economist.com/blogs/economist-explains/2013/05/economist-explains-20

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"7 Things Historical Women Wore Under Their Skirts." http://mentalfloss.com/article/51840/7-things-historical-women-wore-under-their-skirts

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"An Intimate Affair: Women, Lingerie and Sexuality." https://books.google.com/books?id=Le5qnhFFZWAC&printsec=frontcover#v=onepage&q&f=false

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"How Elsa Schiaparelli Changed Women's Underwear." http://www.npr.org/2013/05/07/179872180/shocked-a-memoir-about-beauty-and-its-beholders

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"Reforming Women's Fashion, 1850 - 1920: Politics, Health and Art." https://books.google.com/books?id=jqTToUwfElQC&printsec=frontcover#v=onepage&q&f=false

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"Undergarments History: 1920s Skirt Knickers & Camisole Chemise, Pants, Drawers, Briefs and Knickers Fashion." http://www.fashion-era.com/drawers-pants-combinations-knickers-fashion.htm

Academic insights :

• [1]

"Modelling Femininity." Soley-Beltran, Patricia. European Journal of Women's Studies. August 2004. http://ejw.sagepub.com/content/11/3/309.abstract

• [2]

"The Ontology of the Fashion Model." Evans, Caroline. AA Files. 2011. http://www.jstor.org/discover/10.2307/41337476?sid=21105932751793&uid=4&uid=2134&uid=2129&uid=3739912&uid=70&uid=3739256&uid=2

• [3]

"The Politics of the Breast." Arneil, Barbara. Canadian Journal of Women & the Law. 2000. http://connection.ebscohost.com/c/articles/11076204/politics-breast

• [4]

"Women's Body Image and the Law." Glazer, Reena N. Duke Law Journal. 1993. http://scholarship.law.duke.edu/dlj/vol43/iss1/4/

• [5]

"Erotic Modesty: (Ad)dressing Female Sexuality and Propriety in Open and Closed Drawers, USA, 1800 - 1930." Jill Fields. Gender and History. 2002. http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/1468-0424.00279/abstract;jsessionid=1131E54A2183FA1A08B183C486507AA3.f03t03

• [6]

"History from Below: Women's Underwear and the Rise of Women's Sport." Janet Phillips and Peter Phillips. Journal of Popular Culture. 1993. http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.0022-3840.1993.00129.x/abstract

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